Day 7 – One Week – Beach Day – Introspective

As the week comes to a close, I can say that it has been a challenging first week.   This week was no short on drama & trauma to make me want some hops, but yet I resisted and feeling great today.      However, before we get into detail on my observations, realizations, etc..  let’s talk about Saturday (day 6).

Yesterday I took a road trip to the coast to look for waves, wind and water.    I loaded the truck up with all the gear (paddle board, longboard, kite, wet suits, gear) and headed straight to …  “Starbucks”.  LOL  yup..  had to get some coffee first .      IMG_2805







Now that the truck was packed, fueled up, it was time to hit the first stop “Pacifica, CA”, which is south of Ocean beach (SF).   The city has done a great job of putting in new parking on both sides of taco bell and the $$’s to park was inexpensive for the day.   After taking a few moments to gauge the waves it was clear – The water was packed with surfers and the waves were just closing out w/ little right or lefts to speak of.  Yah there was a moment 3-5 seconds of a right or left, but nothing to good.   Instead of bolting right away I took a spot in the sand and let my feet connect with the earth.  My old buddy scotty would say I was grounding out my positive electrons w/ the earth and I think he was right.


After about an h our or so, I thought it best to move on south bound to see what I could find.  The coffee had worn off, my appetite was growing and I knew the road ahead was only a few stops until Santa Cruz.   I took to the road, playing twenty one pilots and enjoying a “tear in my heart” and “Stressed out”, along with a few of their prior album.   (big  note to self:  need to create a few more road CDs vs. playing from phone w/ a 2′ audio cable).   The traffic was light, the scenery was amazing and the peaceful hum of the road was exactly what I needed.  I passed through a few towns, a few breweries and just kept on trucking (no use in stopping in a brewery on my challenge to play with my brain).

I then remembered a great beach I had stopped at back in August, where the kite surfers went to on a windy day.   I pulled off the road, it was empty, but the wind was dead and there was no action in the water.  So. what do you do?  well I pulled out my chair and enjoyed the beautiful view (panoramic view below).   What an amazing view, the salt in the air, fresh, just powerful.   At this point I realized I should have brought some food & more water with me.


So much for relaxing, phone was getting blown up (next time I’m shutting it off) and I was noticeably hungry.  I hit the road again – now with a mission – FIND FOOD!  Not a brewery, not a hole in the wall (per say), but something I know will satisfy my hunger.   Of course I hit SC, hit 41st streeet and then boom ” Betty’s burgers” of course!   I think the accurate word here would be devour, because that burger had no chance of surviving.   Great food and it was a bit busy, but who cares the wait was worth it.  The coma started to kick in, I hit the beach again, looking for more waves & wind..   No such luck.  So.. at this point I was determined to get out of Santa Cruz before the traffic hit (yup.. no such luck).   but it’s okay..  time spent out of town is time out of town.

Oh, forgot to mention this earlier.   (yes my blogs have no structure).  I supported my new shirt from KB and it truly sums up my life.  Transcend the bullsh&&!


Let’s shift back to day 7, overall the day while not getting in the water as much as I desired, it was beneficial for the soul.   I spent many hours of windshield time thinking about the journey I am on, what’s on my mind and how I can help to close out on items that need closure this year.   I also had that moment where one word stuck with me all day and it made me realize that if you don’t let go of the past, you will never move forward, you will repeat the lesson again and again and again.     let me explain..  When i was in college I had the opportunity to live with my families best friends in SoCal, I started to get back into surfing since proximity was awesome and I wasn’t a good listener.   I knew what periling meant, I knew when to paddle, how to paddle, how to pop up, turn, walk the board, etc.. but I didn’t listen to my coach.   I went out alone in all kinds of seas (smooth, rough, storm, etc) and I kept getting my butt handed to me.  I tried harder, I paddled harder, I changed my wet suit, I tried new wax, I tried a different leash.. still here’s your a&& on a platter bro.   I then started to listen to my coach, I got smarter at finding the riptide, finding the alley way to get out to the outside, I learned how to drop in and bottom turn the right way.  I moved my weight distribution to the right place on the board and then it all happened.   One glorious day in San Onofre at Old Mans I did an EPIC drop in on a 5′ wave, did a bottom turn and then flew off the top of the wave and I FLEW.. I flew through the air like a bird and it was amazing..    My coach asked me – why didn’t you just ride the wave in.. I commented back i wanted to feel that complete success of dropping, turning and soaring..  (of course it was a joke for the day on me).    So..  back to the point.   You need to listen to what your brain is saying, listen to your coaches, listen to what is really going on around you w/o the noise and this is when the word hit me.     Your probably wondering – okay what’s the word brah..  well, I have to say that I can’t really share it.  it’s for me and now that I know it, it will help me move forward.   Clarity is good, learning is good, listening is good, life is good!

Okay.. so Day 7. – (yes thanks for hanging with me this far).    I want to leave you with this one.   I was preparing for a meal at my new home last night and I was in a hunt for forks, yah forks and this is what I found in my drawer.


I have 8 random forks, no pairs, no matches and this is very symbolic of my journey right now.  I have a drawer full of rebel forks that I have accumulated over the last 6 years, so let this wild journey continue of collecting rebel forks to make this life EPIC!

& what about observations?

  • Keep drinking water, work out 45 mins a day (period), be realistic in your daily intake and above all, embrace life….


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